Leather Care and Maintenance

Leather is a personal expression of taste for many people. Men and women the world over are drawn to leather because it has a natural texture and warmth of feel that we as humans have connected with for millennia. Our ancestors used leather to make clothing, bags, and countless other items that were useful in their day to day lives. Leather is timeless in style as well as utility. There are many leather items that are centuries old and still around today.

Although leather is very durable, it is in fact animal skin. Leather can become dry and brittle and is stained by oils and tannins from many natural sources. This is where you come in—you can maintain your leather and it will keep on taking care of you as you care for it.

The best approach is to decide what you want your leather to look like as it fulfills its destiny in your hands. Some items gain a ruggedness and appeal when allowed to age and change in sun and elements, scratched and dropped during the daily grind. Others may look better with a subtle sheen that looks clean or you can even go to shiny and glossy.

I personally prefer to differentiate between the uses of the items and the level of care I provide for them. Some boots, bags and jackets look better with age and a little elemental abuse—they develop character. Other items like wallets, purses or decorative accessories may look better with a clean shine. Any way you look at it, leather is as diverse as people are, so the means and methods used to fit each item may differ as well.

The following is a general guide to help you with your basic leather care. Where you take it from here is up to you.

MAINTENANCE

CLEANING:

First, before we begin treating leather, we have to make sure that surface dirt and grime are handled. This is simply done with a damp cloth to make sure dirt and dust are wiped of the surface of the leather. Avoid using soap as it tends to remove the moisturizers and treatments that are intentionally applied to the leather by the tannery and by me—I usually treat my products with a wax-based sealer/conditioner such as Leather Balm with Atom Wax or with a waterproofing agent like Resolene. You want these factory finishes to remain intact as much as possible.

More stubborn dirt can be removed with a stiff plastic or coarse horse hair brush. Avoid wire brushes as they can scratch and remove the more durable surface of the leather, revealing the flesh beneath which is less water-proof and less resistant to dirt and stains.

CONDITIONING:

Next, we generally recommend the use of a conditioner*** or cream designed for use on leather products. These creams are not designed to polish the leather, however they will help to make leather softer and more supple. Some will have the added benefit of adding waterproofing, but most are formulated for cleaning and moisturizing the leather.

I recommend applying and rubbing-in a conditioner like Bickmore’s Bick 4 or Fiebing’s Aussie leather conditioners every 3-4 months to keep leather soft. I apply it liberally with a dry rag and buff it in. Allow the leather to sit for a few minutes to dry and buff again with a dry rag to achieve a subtle sheen. Remember that the more exposure leather has to water, sun and the elements, the more often you may need to replenish the moisturizing treatment.

***Note that we do NOT recommend conditioners or creams that are Lanolin-based. Lanolin is a naturally occurring oil secreted by sheep and is used extensively in lotions, cosmetics and is in some leather care products. It is known by many leathermakers to over-condition or over-soften leather and may cause leather to prematurely wear and break down.

WATERPROOFING:

Cardinal Leather Works does not recommend waterproofing for most of the leather products we make. This is ok, as most leathers, especially those tanned with analine or chrome tanning processes are treated before they leave our shop and can withstand rain and some splashed water. If your item does get wet, simply allow it to dry out thoroughly before re-use. However, if you regularly expose your other leather items such as boots, jackets, or accessories to moisture at work, hiking or in heavy rain and snow, then an annual waterproofing treatment may be right for you and your comfort.

I would recommend Angelus Brand Mink Oil Compound for waterproofing. Mink oil is very safe for leather and will not cause thread stitching to break down or rot, but be aware that mink oil may darken your leather slightly and a little goes a very long way. Apply mink oil with a dry rag and rub it in. Let sit for an hour or so as it penetrates and spreads through the leather fibers. No further buffing or rubbing is required and if it appears to go on blotchy, it will generally even-out over a 24 hour period.

POLISH:

Polishing leather is something that is generally reserved for shiny dress shoes and other similar items. Polish is mostly for looks only and does not generally provide protection or moisturizing of the leather. We do not typically polish our products to a high shine, however there are many products available on the market for shoes and bags that are polished. We recommend the polishing products from Saphir to achieve a mirror finish and also taking a few minutes to look up the art of leather shoe polishing on YouTube.

GENERAL LEATHER CARE

STORAGE:

When storing your leather products, take care to make sure they are not wrapped in plastic, as it is a flesh-based product and requires air flow to prevent mildew and rot. If you must cover your leather products, use a soft, breathable fabric like a bed sheet or pillow case. We do not wrap our leather products in plastic for transport or storage for this reason.

Avoid direct sunlight. Leather will literally change color and get a tan if placed in direct sunlight for any length of time. The tannins and melanins in the flesh (particularly in veg-tanned leathers) are still there and are still reactive. Many untreated veg-tans will slowly darken into a chestnut patina over time, but this process is accelerated in the sun.

WET LEATHER:

Do not use heat to dry leather. Avoid using a furnace vent, wood-burning stove or hair dryer to heat your leather up to dry. It is best to let leather dry slowly on its own by setting it out where it can evaporate naturally. In a few days you will be able to use the item again. Rushing this process with heat may cause shrinkage or warpage of the leather and may even cause it to crack and age unexpectedly fast, which may potentially permanently ruin the item.

MILDEW:

If leather has been wet and become mildewed, make sure it is allowed to completely dry and then get a facemask and brush off or wipe off (with a soft brush or dry cloth) the mold while using a vacuum to suck up any spores that may become airborne. Do not use the vacuum directly on the leather as it may scratch or damage it. Once mold-free, apply a leather conditioner as above and allow to dry. Start a 3-4 month regimen of conditioning your leather, store it properly and it will be protected from future mildew.

DRY ROT:

If leather has started to dry rot and crack there is little that can be done to repair the broken fibers. You can stop the process of dry rot by immediately conditioning the leather as above but the cracked, damaged areas will never be like new again. This is why it is very important to take good care of your leather products.

SUEDE:

Suede leather is generally the inner flesh-side of a leather skin. Suede is highly susceptible to water-logging and is not easily cleaned once dirty. A specialty cleaner like Angelus Brand Easy Cleaner that is safe for use on suede is the best option. Avoid using water if possible. A light scrub brush may be required and then the item can be wiped clean with a soft, dry rag and allowed to dry thoroughly before storing.

WHITE FILM:

If you spot a white film on the surface of your leather product, have no fear—that is usually just the oils and fats that naturally occur within the leather that have been squeezed out of the pores. It is usually dry and you can simply wipe it down with a dry, lint-free cloth and continue to enjoy your item.

SUMMARY

Leather maintenance is a simple 5-10minute process that you can do to extend the lifespan of your leather item, once every three to four months. This includes cleaning and conditioning at a minimum and possibly waterproofing and polishing for items that have these particular needs.

Always store leather in a clean, dry environment where it can get airflow.

Allow wet leather to dry naturally without using heat to accelerate dry time.

Treat mold and mildew with a quick, dry-clean and immediate application of conditioner.

Immediately treat dry-rotted and cracked leather to stop the process.

Thank you for reading this article. We hope it has been of great benefit to you and that you will enjoy our products for many years to come. Remember that if properly cared for, leather can last for many years and heirloom items can be protected and enjoyed for generations.